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Thread: Need some bearing install help.

  1. #1

    Need some bearing install help.

    Ok, so I have 4 weekends to get my jeep back together to be rolled on an flat deck and towed to a new storage garage.

    Need to install both front hubs and brakes and reinstall both rear axle shafts. Shouldn't have a issue with the fronts but the rear is a diffrent matter.

    Dana 44 one piece shafts, drum brakes. I had taken both shafts out to replace the bearings and seals but. On one shaft I had not got around to cutting the old bearing off so I simply re assembled that side. The other side I had already cut off the old bearing, which was a two piece bearing. Bearing and race. The new bearing is also a two,piece but already pressed together, and I can't see how to split them apart. So do I need to split the race and bearing? Or is it installed as one unit? The old race is still pressed In place in the axle, and the outside diameter of the race is bigger than the inside diameter of the brake backing plate. So I would need to pull the old race, dismantle the brake. Press the bearing on with the oil seal, brake backing plate, bearing retainer plate all assembled on the shaft. Then press the race in while it is assembled on the shaft. Which dosnt sound right.

    Anyone shed some light on to this?

  2. #2
    N.A.S.A. Jeep Launch Commander Toy Jeep's Avatar
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    Yes the bearing goes on as one piece. If you have a Dremmel you can cut most of the way through the bearing race then split it the rest of the way with a cold chisel. To reassemble the bearings and shafts you can heat the bearing in a toster oven as long there are no seals on the bearing race turn the toster oven up to maximum heat (you can use a torch but it has less control) and let the bearing cook for at least 1/2 hour you might need a pipe to make sure the bearing is seated all the way. Remember you only want to hit the inner race when you drive the bearing on. You can install the bearing retainer the same way.
    Not all who wander are lost
    VE6DKS

  3. #3
    Well I got it in, and in the process found out why there was play in the rear shafts. The bearing and seal sit flush with the axle flange but the brake backing plate, 1/8" thick is between the seal and the bearing retainer plate, and the ID of the brake backing plate is bigger than the oil seal, so there is 1/8" play in the shafts. I'll need to think away around this, but for now it will serve the purpose of being winched onto and off a flat deck. That's if I can get the front end back together in time, only 3 weekends left.

  4. #4
    So 3 1/2 years ago I put a new bearing and seal on the drivers side rear axle, left the old bearing on the passengers side as it was just to get the Jeep on to the flat deck.

    Fast forward to last weekend, after driving the Jeep around the yard and local range road for a grand total of 2 kms over 3 1/2 years I went to clean and bleed the rear brakes only to find the drivers side axle had an out 1/2”of end play in it, took it apart and cleaned the grease away with brake cleaner only to find the bearing had shredded itself, pictures below.

    There was some confusion if the axle was from a wide track CJ or a Scout ii, but regardless the same bearing and seal is used on both, Timkin set 10. Btw I am 99% sure the axle is a D44 from a mid 70’s Scout, due to the 58” wms to wms width, the 4 bolt (4 1/4” BHC) retainer plate and the 30 spline axle.

    So why did the bearing shread itself after only 2kms, the passenger side which has a 30 year old bearing with unknown miles on it is unaffected.

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Re visiting the the fact the bearing and oil seal sit flush with the axle flange and not the brake drum backing plate makes me think that is the reason, but it’s the same on both sides. How to eliminate the 1/8 gap between the seal and the retainer plate?

    A: a 1/8” shim behind the bearing race pushing everything forward to sit flush with the brake plate.
    B: a 1/8 slime betwwen the seal and retainer plate that sits in the space left by the brake plate.
    C: put a second retainer plate on the back of the brake plate, between the mounting flange and brake plate.
    D: say screw it and by a TJ.

  7. #7
    N.A.S.A. Jeep Launch Commander Toy Jeep's Avatar
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    In the past I have prepacked the bearings when I replaced them. This lubricates them until the oil in the diff has time to reach them.
    Not all who wander are lost
    VE6DKS

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Toy Jeep View Post
    In the past I have prepacked the bearings when I replaced them. This lubricates them until the oil in the diff has time to reach them.
    The bearing were packed when installed and still had Greece in them when I dismantled, the pictures are after I cleaned everything up with brake cleaner.

    The bearing failed in the inner race, it split allowing the bearing to walk backwards into the retaining collar, I had used NAPA bearings, and because I was planing on re-doing them later after the move I brought the cheap ones not the Timken. Well I may have save a few bucks back then but in the long run cheating out on bearings is not something I will do again. I have 2 sets of Timkens on order along with a pair of 1/4” thick scout retainer plates.

  9. #9
    One problem solved now a new one pops up.

    Got both the rear axles out, old bearings off and new timkin bearings and seals pressed on, both axles installed nicely with new 1/4” retainer plates.

    Jeep is on axle stands, both t-case and gear box are in neutral. Both axles spin freely without brake drums or wheels on, both axles spin freely with both brake drums on, both axles spin freely with both brake drums on and only the passenger side wheel on. Neither axle spins freely with the drivers side wheel on.

    If i back the wheel nuts off off on the drivers side both axles will spin, but they bind up when the drivers side (only the drivers side) wheel is tightened.

    Best set I can figure is the drivers side axle is now sitting about 1/8” inwards from the previous bearing set, and the brake drum is binding either against the brake cover plate, or the outer lip of the brake shoes are binding against the drum face.

    no idea how to fix this other than a spacer between the axle flange and the inside of the brake drum. Not sure if that’s the safest route.

    Anyone ever have have to deal with something like this before?

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