Page 9 of 12 FirstFirst ... 7891011 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 90 of 113

Thread: CJ7 Re-build V2

  1. #81
    Found the problem in the column. The PO that put on a grant wheel opted to toss a few parts away and cobble the wheel and column together.
    Wheel nearly came off in my hand. So i found a GM column in Sask. Its on the way.
    1985 CJ-7 Custom (Flat fendered CJ,YJ,XJ,TJ...)
    Picked n Parted 1987 YJ
    Sold 1998 XJ
    RIP 1981 CJ-7 Limited Edition Laredo

  2. #82
    Oh! I got a deal on a JK under seat tuffy lock box. For other CJ owners it is not a direct fit but there is pretty minor cut and weld to make it work.
    I pulled the seat and cut out about 2 inches of the crossbar. bent the upper piece up 20 degrees or so and welded in a piece to make up the gap in a horizontal orientation.
    That made room under the seat.
    Next pop the hardware off the bottom of the lock box. You wont need the rear spacer. Cut 3-4 inches off both ends of the bracket. bend those pieces into 90 degree brackets.
    Weld them on the side of the lockbox oposite the tunnel aligning them with the seat bolt holes.
    Prime and touchup paint then put it in place. Install the seat over the lockbox tabs and through bolt.
    Done.
    1985 CJ-7 Custom (Flat fendered CJ,YJ,XJ,TJ...)
    Picked n Parted 1987 YJ
    Sold 1998 XJ
    RIP 1981 CJ-7 Limited Edition Laredo

  3. #83
    Next is to adapt the d300 twin sticks so they remain in the factory hole. Add about 3 inches forward with a slight rise for the lift.
    Then finish my other tuffy console and speaker box install (sand blasted and painted).
    Finish the heater mod (cut the princess auto heater in half retaining the core and grill) as a reheat coil in front of the floor vent.
    Then a little wiring (minor).
    TJ soft top mods.
    Then its on the road.
    1985 CJ-7 Custom (Flat fendered CJ,YJ,XJ,TJ...)
    Picked n Parted 1987 YJ
    Sold 1998 XJ
    RIP 1981 CJ-7 Limited Edition Laredo

  4. #84
    So the twin sticks were not as easy as i thought. Ended up scrapping all but the little tab that rides on the pivot on the t-case.
    Bought new stainless rod, threaded it, heat, bend, weld, grind, polish, and done. Sounded simple to me. Took me nearly two days! They look a d work pretty good though.

    Pulled the Column late Sunday. I am shocked it didnt fail on the road.
    Some kind of nest, a spring that looked like a dog turd, and hair....lots of hair. Gross.

    There are a million little parts in there.
    About three or four custom tools and a puller required.
    Its all apart now and in a pile.
    This week i am cleaninig it up and re-building it.
    Picked up a spare in fair shape for parts.
    When i pulled it i found it wasnt bolted to the tub behind the dash.
    So dash is comming out now as well.
    Guess its time for that wire harness and heater rebuild.
    Feeling like it will never get back on the road.
    Last edited by DamnCj; 04-04-2018 at 09:30 PM.
    1985 CJ-7 Custom (Flat fendered CJ,YJ,XJ,TJ...)
    Picked n Parted 1987 YJ
    Sold 1998 XJ
    RIP 1981 CJ-7 Limited Edition Laredo

  5. #85
    Buying a harness or going the Painless route?
    VE6AKT
    98 ZJ 5.9 LTD "Miner"
    77 CJ7 5.0 "Sparky"
    98 ZJ 4.0 Laredo "Junior"
    RIP 94 ZJ "Rammy"

  6. #86

    Painfull more likely.

    Quote Originally Posted by ikidd View Post
    Buying a harness or going the Painless route?
    Hey there! Hows your CJ comming along?

    Not sure on a direction yet. I was looking at dune buggy harnesses, hotrod universals, then checked on a Centex or tronics kit, and glanced at painless.
    Painless wires are rolled on the thighs of virgins according to the price tag.
    I wont be doing that.
    My rig has about 5 factory connectors left on it anyway. About 6 feet of original wire combined.
    All of it is red. All of it. Yes....ALL OF IT.
    Near as i can tell the PO that wired it was color blind with cataracts in his good eye and rocks in his wood one.
    So im bent on strip, solder, crimp, heatshrink, etc anyway.
    Probably a harness. Likely EZ-Wire unless somebody stops me.

    Might have a painless guide to follow if it gets stupid.

    Why? You itching to do some terminating?!
    Last edited by DamnCj; 04-04-2018 at 09:24 PM.
    1985 CJ-7 Custom (Flat fendered CJ,YJ,XJ,TJ...)
    Picked n Parted 1987 YJ
    Sold 1998 XJ
    RIP 1981 CJ-7 Limited Edition Laredo

  7. #87
    N.A.S.A. Jeep Launch Commander Toy Jeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Penhold, AB
    Posts
    2,854
    If you go the hand built route make sure to label all the wires at each end. Soldering the wires causes emdretalment of the wires next to the joints. Crimping on terminals and heat shrinking is best in my thinking.

    You will get your CJ back on the road it just takes a bit of time.
    Not all who wander are lost
    VE6DKS

  8. #88
    Quote Originally Posted by DamnCj View Post
    Why? You itching to do some terminating?!
    Haha, no. If it makes you feel any better, the Western Stars I work on occassionally have nothing but white wiring in a dash that has about a dozen dials and 25 switches.

    No idea how much the EZ-Wire is, but I'd pull the wiring diagram out and do it myself, but I"m a cheap bastard.

    My 7 is pretty much as it has been, really done nothing with it after I got it cleaned up and running OK. Have to catch up some day this summer.
    VE6AKT
    98 ZJ 5.9 LTD "Miner"
    77 CJ7 5.0 "Sparky"
    98 ZJ 4.0 Laredo "Junior"
    RIP 94 ZJ "Rammy"

  9. #89
    I’ve used the painless 26 circuit weatherproof customizable kit in my 64’ Sport Fury. It was as the name implies a painless install. Took longer to remove the old harness than put in the new, everything is labeled and it’s as close to plug and play as you will get. Took a weekend to do it all.

    I built my own harness for the Willys thinking it would be a simple build but it took several weekends and many hours after work and in the end the cost wasn’t that much cheaper than the painless kit once you add up all the wire, connectors, heat shrink, fuse box, flashers, relays, circuit breakers etc!

  10. #90
    I really like kwickwire over painless. The added cutoff switch and relays on block for horn are nice. Haywire is my second choice. Ezwire my third but most economical. Debating just cleaning up what's there but the block is such a rats nest with solo many splices. As much as I hate to admit it I think it's time to gut it. So heater motor upgrade, rebuild the heater box, new wire harness, Probably cut out the drivers floorpan and weld in a prefab or fab one myself. It's not flintstone floors yet but there are a half a dozen dime size holes at my left heel now. I better get on it I suppose.
    1985 CJ-7 Custom (Flat fendered CJ,YJ,XJ,TJ...)
    Picked n Parted 1987 YJ
    Sold 1998 XJ
    RIP 1981 CJ-7 Limited Edition Laredo

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3
Copyright © 2018 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3
Copyright © 2018 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.